Intuition Let’s see what makes life interesting…


A helicopter from the junkyard

Filed under: Unkategorisiert — Tom @ 19:08

Just a quick note. Recently I was out, dropping some items to the local junkyard. You know, these buy-back centres where you can bring your old paper, plastics, used electronics. While I was bumping my old internet router into the large electronics container I stumbled over a little helicopter, sitting in the middle of the pile in the container.

I asked a guy if I can get this device, he fished it out of the junk and handed it to me. It was a complete Thunder Tiger Mini Titan E325. Without a battery and with a Multiplex analog receiver.

450 class helicopter from the junkyard

It’s complete

The head was turning, the tail as well, the fuselage was not very nice anymore. One blade was bending while turning it. But all in all it was complete:

  • Stock motor and ESC
  • Futaba GY401 gyro (really one of the best in these days)
  • Four Hitec Feather HS-56HB servos
  • Multiplex receiver, don’t know which, dumped it in the meantime

What I fixed

  • Removed the blades which were mounted to tighten anyway. But they were so out of balance and different in weigth that they went straight into the trash. In addition there was added shrinking foil at the end. Got new once. Really, you never know, when the machine decides to through away a blade while the head is spinning at 2500 rpm you should better be far away.
  • Disassembled parts of the head, especially the blade holders from the center piece. Fixed the position of the thrust-bearings which were assembled wrong. Voila, the blade stops sticking and was rotating freely. Reassembled the rest of the head.
  • Added a used Orange DSMX receiver, 6ch, which I had laying around for a while. Did a quick electronics check: Everything worked, including the gyro.
  • The tail was making noise when turning. Reason was that the tail belt was twisted inside the boom. Fixed this and while doing that I removed a little wheel at the lower end of the tail fin. This is a helicopter not a race car. After the belt was mounted right the noise stopped completely.
  • Exchanged the HiTec HS-55HB for the tail with a Corona DS-319MG Digital Servo. Bended the control rod to the tail to a straight one, adjusted the tail mechanics and made the tail blades moving freely in the grips. They were tighten too fast as the main blades.
  • Exchanged the tail support holder, it was broken, removed some glue on the tail book and glued the slightly broken tail boom with CA.
  • Got a new canopy including a sticker set.
  • Programmed the radio, adjusted the head, servos, tail.

Added one of my 2200mAh/3S batteries and did a quick test flight. Yes, it flies, no unusual noise, tail was a little bit wobbling, blade tracking was not existing, the usual stuff on the first flight. That’s what a test flight is for.

  • Reduced gyro sensitivity to 60%. Not really great numbers but the tail feels nice and holds good. I like the GY-401.
  • Repositioned the tail servo a little bit so no trimming is necessary anymore.
  • Blade track is adjusted, too. Thanks to the blue and red stripes at the end of the blades that was easy in the sunlight.

The little machine does very well now. Never had a branded 450er class helicopter, always the ones from Hobbyking. Now I have one, like it a lot.

Finally ready with a new canopy

Lets sum up

Beside my radio (Spektrum DX9) I needed the following parts.

Necessary need to get it into the air

  • Orange 6CH DSMX receiver. I had one but if you need a new one it’s app. 25€.
  • A pair of main blades, 10€ plus p&p on eBay. I used original wood ones, for the look of this old timer. But new carbon 325mm ones are even better.
  • A battery, 2200mAh, 3S. Starting price is 15€.

So all in all 50€. Don’t forget if you buy such a machine on eBay you have to usually add a battery and a receiver on your own, too.

Not necessary things but recommended

  • Tail server, Corona DS-319MG or similar, 10€ plus p&p
  • Tail support holder, 5€ plus p&p. Or remove the tail support.

Unnecessary but for the look

  • A new hod, bought it in two pieces, 8€ and 10€ plus the decal sheet, another 8€. 26€ only for the look!

If you add it up it’s 91€ to get it back into the current state. Remove the battery and the receiver you usually have and you end up with 51€. Nice price for a Thunder Tiger Mini Titan E325 in a like new condition with good electronics.

Anyway, beside all the numbers. It was some cheap fun to get it back working. No heavy repairs needed (head, main rotor shaft, etc.), it flies great, looks fine and made me a lot of fun to reconstruct this oldie.

P.S.: Yes, you may spotted it from the first picture. The same day I found a Tamiya Dual Hunter in the container. added a receiver, a battery and my son was happy.


Spektrum DX9 radio with M9 gimbals

Filed under: Modellbau — Tom @ 21:39

I’ve updated my DX9 transmitter with hall effect M9 gimbals. Afterwards I cleaned it. Then, after several years, I’ve finally removed the cover foil for the display and some other controls. Now I have a new transmitter. A deluxe version of the Spektrum DX9 with extra smooth controls.

Shiny like new with M9 gimbals installed

Why did I did it?

I do love my DX 9 for so many years now. I use it for nearly all my models.

But from the start it annoyed me that the throttle stick is binding. For me it’s the left stick, mode 2. Adjusting has not helped, either it’s to loose or to sticky. I looked for better gimbals and I found the M9. Now, after the upgrade, it’s perfect for me.

Then, from the technical side, using hall detectors is pretty cool to detect the stick position. It works seamless and very smooth.

And I do like mods and work on thinks. This is how I learn how it works. Beside the stickiness another reason.

It’s not an easy upgrade

The M9 gimbals are, more or less, designed for the Taranis X9D. If I remember right I got them from Bangood. 40 Euro or so. Both together. Mechanical and electrical they do work with the DX9. But it is in no way an easy install.

Here is why:

  • When you open the case you maybe break a clip in the antenna cover. As I did.
  • Plugs don’t match. You have to cut off the original plugs and solder them to the new gimbals. Or you have to get new plugs.
  • For me, one gimbal has probably swapped cables installed. That might happen not necessarily for you. See below.
  • You have to remove the main board and a few other items. Otherwise you can’t get the old gimbals out and the new in.
  • You have to reverse the vertical stick movement. One direction, vertical or horizontal, has to be inverted anyway. For the horizontal ones you can do that in the settings menu of the transmitter. Simply reverse it there. But for the vertical one it’s not so easy, think of the throttle alarm. You can physically revert them, but it’s not a simple cable swap.

Before you begin

You need to have some experience when you do this update.

  • You need to know at which end a soldering iron gets hot.
  • You have to know how to hold a screw driver.
  • Don’t use any kind of force, all parts come apart without force.

Do not blame me if your DX9 is hacked and isn’t working after you tried to exchange the gimbals.

Opening the case

To open the case of the DX9 you need to unscrew 8 screws:

The case from the back

The batterie can be left in. The antenna cover is a problem. After the screws are removed it’s still held by three little clips in the inner on the front side. Slightly bend the cover back and forward to get it removed. Or break one of the clips and glue it back on later. As I did.

Once it’s open you need to unplug a few more cables to separate the two halfs.

The plugs don’t match

The plugs on the M9 gimbals don’t match. Either you get new ones and you have the proper crimping tool or you solder them to the old plugs. That’s what I did. For some reason I had to swap two connections for the right connector. Dunno why, maybe the gimbal itself comes misconfigured.

I’ve connected

  • Red DX9 wire to the orange ones
  • Black DX9 wire to the black one
  • White DX9 wire to the yellow wire for the vertical stick
  • Orange DX9 wire to the blue wire for the horizontal stick

Here is a picture:

New wiring

As I’ve removed all single connectors from the plug and reinserted them I’m not certain if I’m in the end swapped the white and yellow signal lines. Try it out, it’s easy.

But you can see from the above picture: On the right hand connector to the main board the cables for red and black in the upper section are exchanged. Dunno why that has to be. If you swap them the system will not boot anymore.

Anyway, it’s working for me.

Removing the main board

In order to uninstall the old and install the new gimbals you have to remove the main board, two additional boards and the speaker.

  • It’s always a good idea to make some photos of the layout before you start
  • Unplug the blue marked plugs
  • Removed the screws marked red
  • Don’t loose a screw as I did

You should have some experience in these kind of things. If it’s the first time you see such a device from the inside better leave it alone.

Unplug/unscrew the main board and additional components

There are eight screws on the mainboard which holding the trim switches. You don’t have to remove these. If you do, you better install them back before you reinstall the board.

You may leave the plugs at the lower end of the board in place. And of course it’s not necessary to remove all connectors to the two little daughter boards. One end is enough.

Stick directions don’t match

Whatever you do, always one direction of the stick movement is reversed. Horizontal or vertical. But as there is only one direction to install the gimbals you will end up in reversed vertical sticks. And this is odd, there is always the throttle channel involved. Mode 1 or 2.

Sure, you can reverse the throttle channel in the model setup. But you will get an alarm when you turn on the radio and the throttle is not in the idle position. Unless the cut throttle switch is engaged.

This is easy to fix and, IMHO, you have to do it. I doesn’t wanted to change all my models settings. Here is an overview how to swap the direction:

  • Remove the yellow marked spring
  • Remove all the screws marked with the green circle
Gimbal details
  • Remove the gimbal stick
  • Remove the screw and the plastic piece which holds a ring shaped magnet on the axle of the stick
  • Rotate the magnet by 180 degrees. My one is marked black. It’s easy to turn them. I reversed the other side, too. That magnet was marked blue.
  • Roughly check the center position by holding the pieces together while the radio is turned on and looking at the channel monitor.
  • Reassemble everything in the reverse direction.

It sounds more complicated as it is. Maybe you have problems to reinstall the spring. I’ve used a pair of tweezers. Take your time, eventually it will work.

If the center position isn’t all right, you can calibrate it later in the settings.

Conclusion – and how it works

It takes some time to do the conversion. I needed three and a half hours. Naturally, if I have to do it again now it would be faster.

Sure you can break the radio, but on the other hand it not rocket science.

You end up with a unique DX9 with high end gimbals, smooth with a nice grip. There are not much other DX9 in the world with this feature. I love it every time I have my hands on the transmitter.

Would I do it again? Certainly, yes!

For me it works great. Until now I’ve flew a few models, the small Helicopters. Blade MCP X, the 130X and the BO-105 from Blade. I’ve enjoyed it a lot. Yes, I do love my DX9 more than before.

Addendum: I still love it, it’s two weeks ago. It works great for me.


A real life LEGO Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimted

Filed under: Jeep Wrangler JKU,Modellbau — Tom @ 20:44

When I started the project to rebuild my Wrangler from LEGO bricks I always thought about the tires and rims. Madocca1977 used Arocs wheels for his creation. His two door Wrangler was my starting point.

A question of tires

I felt the wheels are to ordinary. The diameter is ok, but in the end I used wider ones. See the last post.

Now I think they are to big. Even with the wider fenders. Not very realistic. This is ok for show cars, but not for a daily driver.

Big, bigger, biggest. Hmm.

So I returned back to Arocs rims and tires. LEGO doesn’t have black 86652 rims. I painted them. Trust me, the grey once looking bad on this model. Yes, really. Also painted the tire a bit. You will quickly see why.

Moderate tires, non lifted version

As you know, the chassis was originally inspired by rm8. Heavily modified.

The thinner tires allowed me to lower the chassis. Sound strange, but it is so. It’s now on a level as in reality. And I could use a different steering bar as rm8 used.

Because of this I got a lot more room in the front section so that the springs now working without a stop. And I was able to add a better underride barrier. Looks a lot better from the front because you can’t see the complete differential anymore. See the last picture above.

Further, compared to the first version, some more grey parts were removed from the bottom. And two control arms are mounted different. Maybe you can spot it, see the older pic. Here is the result, black LEGO as it’s best:

A view from the bottom

The wheels now fit nice into the fenders, which are now 1,5 studs wide. The front axle lost the Panhard rod, it didn’t fit anymore, so the front axle is not that stable as before. It’s ok, only ok, maybe I find a better solution.

Here it is, compared to the real one. In the meantime the stickers are moved to the center of the door. I would say that the dimensions do fit. It’s summer, the hardtop is not installed.

Real vs LEGO

Then the model got a hook for a trailer. It was nearly finished and I looked for something else to do.

From the rear, with a hook installed

„Something else“

That „something else“ was my trailer. A cheap small device.

Unusual small tires, my little trailer

It took me a while to get the proportions right. The height is still a problem in this scale, either it’s to high or to low. I finally used the „to low“ version:

A simple LEGO trailer

The tires are awful. I know. Please give me a hint for better once.

More or less I had to modify a part. The cover isn’t LEGO at all. But it looks like the real thing. You can even open the back.

Backdoor open

I will add some more pictures to the gallery below. Here is a final one, both models combined. Yes, the real thing looks so.

An off road trailer 😉

Yesterday I tested the R/C functions again. The batteries were dry, that was no fun. Anyway, the chassis of Madocca1977 has way more offroad capabilities and goes to hills where the chassis by rm8 never will go. But that’s not the point here. That car looks like my Jeep Wrangler.

Maybe I create a YouTube video of all the models showed here. And I will for sure do a photo which compares the model with the real one including the trailer. This time with the roof lowered. Like the other picture I did. The one without the trailer. I hope it will look nice.

Modified and unusual parts

This model still uses some modified parts:

  • The cut axles from the previous one went from the back axle to the front
  • The chromed parts like the wheel caps, the differentials and the 3L universal joints
  • The rims are painted black. LEGO mades them only in light blueish grey.

And, as always, some more expensive parts:

  • Thins liftarms are always a little expensive. I used two 1×7 one in black, for the footboards. And a lot of 1×2, 1×3, 1×4,1×5 and 1×6.
  • Once I got one 43093. Nothing special you say. That part is an „Axle pin with friction ridges“. But in black! You know them, in blue, only in blue, every-time in blue. And a lot of them in blue. Now it holds the antenna.
  • Black 5 x 7 liftarms are also not very common.

It took me several tries to get the cover for the trailer right. One was to short, the other was to low. The last once are enforced with steel wires to keep the shape.


Finally a small gallery with some more impressions.


LEGO Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited

Filed under: Modellbau — Tom @ 21:39


In the end: My Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited. Made of LEGO bricks

The background

My first LEGO MOC was the MOC-8863 designed by Madoca1977. I found it in late 2017 on Rebrickable. It’s the Wrangler JK two door edition. There is another article covering it on this page.

Right from the start I planed to modify it to a four door model. But before I had a lot of other LEGO projects and models. And my wife asked me to build her the Toyota Bandeirante her parents had as she was a teenager. Now I knew I married the right girl. I modded the FJ40 from rm8 to a Toyota Bandeirante.

Shortly after the Bandeirante was finished I started the JK Unlimited.

The chassis

The chassis of the two door JK from Madoca1977 is brilliant. Excellent Off-Road capabilities. But hard to stretch. So I decided to use a chassis from Egor, also know as Rm8. He is the designer of the Toyota FJ40 which was the foundation for the Bandeirante.

Egor used his Toyota Hilux chassis also for a JK Unlimtied creation. Here is the link to Eurobricks. And a picture:

The original chassis by rm8

We do have a rack-and-pinion steering, controlled by a servo motor. Don’t like it, it’s bulky. The servo motor isn’t fixed, it’s swinging with the axle. Otherwise fine. Two differentials, front and back. No center one, that’s pretty well. A nice suspension and a L-motor.

Add a S-Brick or a LEGO IR-Receiver plus a battery and you have an R/C controlled car.

I removed some IMHO over-engineered parts from the original chassis. For instance the mounts for the shocks at the front axle. And a few other things. But not all. I kept the four controls arms on the front axle. Don’t know why. Lazy? Yes, the real Jeep JK has two pairs of them, but much longer and parallel to the ground. In the model they are way to short and it looks strange. See above.

I’ve added a Panhard rod to make the front axle stable.

I do like he rear axle. Pretty straight forward LEGO design. Found in many models.

Bottom view. All black if possible. See below why.

The body

Stretched the body and reassembled the ideas of Madoca1977 to make it look similar to his design. Used his style to create the rears doors, their hinges, the roof. Beside the hood and the grill nearly everything is changed somehow.

„My“ JK

The hood designed by Madoca1977 is great. I really do love it. Sad that the grill has no equal distance. Couldn’t do it better.

For the interior I’ve added a floor, seats, the middle arm rest and a proper rollover bars. Some tins for the guys in the back. It was good to have a template outside.

Hardtop removed

Design goals

The feeling, the look of the original machine, should be in the model. Yeah, and it is. See below, matches the real one and its sprit very well.

You maybe have noticed that I don’t like blue pins. And light grey axles. Dark grey, sometimes, if necessary. When there are no black ones in exchange available. Don’t like light grey on a black model as well. Only if necessary. You know, not all pins are available in all colors from LEGO. So, if possible, I used black parts. Sometimes with compromises. But not very often. The model is robust.

I’ve used black parts wherever I could. Even for axles and connectors not visible. That’s sometimes expensive. Some not visible parts are still grey, but none of them are red. Or blue. I hope I don’t left a blue one somewhere.

I don’t like gabs. I like smooth surfaces. So I tried to remove gabs as far as I could. This design is a mixture of LEGO Expert and LEGO Technic. Expert is more realistic, Technic more accurate.

Why all black?

It’s hard to see details? Right! Hard to make photos? Right! And why these funny stickers? And the number plates?


Sorry, it’s summer here. So no picture with the hard top installed. That one is resting in the garden for the next winter.

Cheats – Non LEGO parts

I used no parts not build by LEGO. But I modified two of them and a few are painted/chromed:

  • The caps on the axles for the tires are chromed. LEGO has no chromed 1×1 round tiles. Nice work of a Polish company.
  • The differential housing and the 3L connectors for the axles are chromed. Not a nice work of a Polish company, they look odd. But better than light grey.
  • And again, as in the Toyota Bandeirante, I had to cut two axles: They are not visible but the outcome is visible on all pictures. Can you spot them?

Some more pics


Toyota Bandeirante made from LEGO bricks

Filed under: Modellbau — Tom @ 18:48

A present for my wife

This is the final result. I made only one change after I gave it to her

How it began …

One and a half year back, it was autumn 2017, I found on Rebrickable the MOC-8863 made by Madoca1977. It’s a R/C controlled two door Jeep Wrangler. I’ve bought some LEGO set on eBay as a foundation. Then the remaining bricks from Bricklink. The car is now made with a black body. It got a couple of my own modifications, including bigger tires. The two door variant is nice, but as I have the four door model I will change it to that later.

Jeep Wrangler – Early picture with still some parts not in black

In the next few months I bought and builded a lot of other LEGO models including the large R/C controlled yellow excavator. I bought the R/C controlled Volvo L350F from Lepin, modified the steering using two small actuators. And so on. I even tried the Mk I tank from the Polish manufacturer Cobi. Pretty nice model.

Toyota Bandeirante

My wife’s parents, when she was a young women, owned a Toyota Bandeirante in Brasil. And she came up in January 2019 and ask me if I can create her one from LEGO bricks. Again in Rebrickable I found a nice MOC, MOC-2769 by creator Rm8. The MOC is a R/C controlled Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. The FJ40 is very similar to the Toyota Bandeirante.

Before I will continue and show you the modifications I did in detail I like to say some words about MOC-2769 and his creator. You can find the excellent build instructions on This PDF file is really great. Rm8’s real name is Egor Karshiev, on YouTube he has his own channel, and he is active on various other side in the NET. Egor, thanks for this great model.

Did I mentioned that the car of my wife’s parents was white? Pretty expensive color when using LEGO technic bricks. But doable. Here is the result:

In the old times…

Design goals and what I changed

You see the color of the original car: White! That was the major design goal. Make it white and get rid of all coloured pins and axles. It looks pretty awful if you can see red and blue spots between white bricks.

Second goal was to smooth the model, get rid of some sometimes nasty visible technic holes. An example are the bumpers and the side rails, along with the gap between the front hood and the side walls:

Original FJ40 model, images from the manual by Rm8
Bandeirante in white, reduced gaps and holes, no colourful pins

Another example, multiple gaps on the roof are gone. To remove the thin gap in the front part, near the rear edges of the large tile, I had to use a pretty expensive piece: A white thin technic liftarm, 1×5, with only holes.

Left the original roof (image from the manual), right you can see my changes

During the build I encountered that there are a number of bricks not available in white. Or they are but pretty expensive. White bushes (instead of the common light bluish grey ones) are expensive. As a tip: They can be exchanges in a lot areas by 1L tubes. They are by far not so valuable and do look better.

Beside minor optical differences the main difference between the Bandeirante and the FJ-40 is the back door. It’s only one on the Bandeirante, mounted on the right rear site. For sure, that has to so for my model, too. And it took me some time to get it done, including the number plate holder. Again, I tried to make it as smooth as possible using technic bricks. One advantage is now that the door is mounted with two hinges. Far more robust:

Original FJ40 model, images from the manual by Rm8
One door at the back

More images at the end in the gallery.

I further changed the seats, especially the back ones. The front ones are modified as well, now there is room for three people. You can’t see that good on any of the pics here, sorry.

There is also an old photo from the back

The chassis isn’t modified at all except that I replaced a lot of red axles and blue pins. Further some bricks are used in a different color, mainly black instead of light bluish grey.


To be honest I had to modify two groups of pieces a little bit. And two pieces are not available from LEGO:

  • I cut the axles holding the rear wheels. Compare the result with the original model or the Jeep above. In my eyes it looks not very nice when they are poking so far out.
  • The rims are painted white. It’s a display model for my wife and it should look very similar. The rims where in white color on the original car. LEGO don’t made them or ever has made them in white.
  • The 2×2 round tile used for the headlights is not available from LEGO in trans clear. This piece is not a LEGO brick.

Everything else is plain LEGO, no other vendors.



Ein neues Auto…

Filed under: Jeep Wrangler JKU — Tom @ 20:38

Habe ein neues Auto. Neu bestellt, im Spätsommer 2015. In Deutschland wurden 2015 nur unter 1600 Jeep Wrangler neu zugelassen. Ein Nichenauto. Kein VW Golf, kein vernünftiger Kleinwagen, kein komfortabler SUV. Als Viertürer ein familientaugliches Spaßauto.


Bin das Model ein paar mal probegefahren. Den Zweitürer, den Viertürer. Ich empfehle jedem das zu tun bevor er sich für einen Kauf entscheidet. Das Fahrwerk ist stramm, bockig, man spürt das die Straße eben nicht eben ist. Ein komfortable gefederter SUV ist ein Jeep Wrangler nicht. Er ist ein Geländewagen zur Personenbeförderung, daß steht auch so in den Papieren. Weiteres siehe Wikipedia.

Der Wagen hat einen CW-Wert wie ein Schrankwand. In einer rosa selbstgestrickten Öko-Diskussion gehen Dir sehr schnell die Argumente aus. Finger weg!

Man fällt auf mit dem Wrangler. Wer das nicht mag, sollte keinen fahren. Die Fahrerposition ist hoch, wie in einem VW-T5-Bus. Die Maße zum Bus sind vergleichbar. Die bekannten Oberklasse SUVs überragt der Jeep. Q5, X7, Cayenne, was da noch ist. Die Fahrer schauen zumeist angestrengt weg. Trifft man an der Tankstelle auf einen RAM 1500 ordnet man sich wieder unter. Auf dem Supermarktparkplatz gibt es die eingebaute Vorfahrt: Die Kiste ist eben groß und überragt vieles.

In Deutschland wird der Jeep mit Sommerreifen verkauft. Steht M+S drauf, aber keine Schneeflocke. Diesen Winter gab es wo ich wohne nur einmal richtig Schnee. War auch das einzige Mal bis jetzt auf der Straße, wo der Allradantrieb zum Einsatz kam. Der Jeep Wrangler hat normal Heckantrieb. Die Reifen waren kein Problem, der Wagen fuhr und bremste gut mit den Reifen.



Der Jeep Wrangler ist ein Relikt aus einer längst vergessenen Zeit. Ich habe meine vielen VW-Käfer geliebt. Einen habe ich noch. Schätze, deshalb mag ich den Wrangler so gerne. Einmal Käfer, immer Käfer. Die Wagen sind sich streckenweise sehr ähnlich:

  • Rahmen (Leiterrahmen, Plattformrahmen): Die Karosserie ist nur aufgesetzt, der Wagen fährt ohne
  • Heckantrieb
  • Trittbretter
  • Flache Frontscheibe
  • Runde Scheinwerfer, freundliches Lächeln
  • Hohe Bodenfreiheit
  • Mässige Straßenlage
  • Extremer Wiedererkennungswert: °|||||||° (die drei Käfer Kurven geht gerade nicht: Motorhaube, Scheibe, Dach bis hinten)
  • Jeep-Wave: Wrangler-Fahrer grüßen sich, wie auch Käfer oder Oldtimer-Fahrer (Defender-Fahrer grüßen sich auch)

Weiter Eindrücke später: Cabrio, Geländegängigkeit, Hardtop/Softtop, Musikanlage, Interieur, Reifen, …



CTC 3D-Printer (Makerbot Replicator 1 Clone)

Filed under: 3D-Drucker — Tom @ 23:53

Bei eBay habe ich in der vergangenen Woche für 500,- Euro einen 3D-Printer gekauft. Es ist ein Clone des Makerbot Replicator 1 mit zwei Druckköpfen.

Erste Erfahrungen:

  • Der Lüfter der die Ansteuerung der Steppermotoren kühlt (von unten erreichbar nachdem eine Abdeckung entfernt wurde) ist extrem laut. Möglicherweise ist der defekt.
  • Update auf die Makerbot-Firmware 7.5 war kein Problem, das ging über ReplicatorG 40, geladen z.B. von (erster Treffer bei Google) von problemslos. Doch diese ältere Version aus dem November 20123 hat Probleme.
  • Die Makerbot-Firmware bis 7.5 kann nur SD-Karten bis 2GB, die als FAT-16 formatiert sind, lesen.
  • Update auf die wesentlich bessere Sailfish-Firmware geht mit dem ReplicatorG40 aus dem obigen Link nicht. Die Version kann nicht wie in der Sailfish-Anleitung beschriebene die Firmware aus dem Netz laden. Auf Thingiverse unter Item 32084, im Bereich Files, ist die Revision r30 des ReplicatorG40 zu finden. Diese Version funktioniert, danach ist der Anleitung von Sailfish einfach zu folgen.
  • Das Gerät ist der MakerBot Replicator 1 Single & Dual.
  • Sailfish 7.7. kann SD-Karten mit mehr als 2GB und FAT-32 formatiert lesen.
  • Der Vollständigkeit halber: ist die Drehscheibe für Modelle

Derzeit wird gedruckt, im Keller, der Drucker ist doch recht laut. Update: Das Druckergebnis war sehr gut. Bis zu dem Moment wo kein Filament mehr zugeführt wurde. Auf der Spule war es so ungeschickt aufgewickelt, dass es nicht mehr abgewickelt werden konnte. Der Strang ist daraufhin gerissen.

Boeing Stearman PT-17 Konvertierung

Filed under: Modellbau — Tom @ 13:47


Doppeldecker mochte ich schon immer. Und neben den ganzen Hubschraubern auch viele kleine RC-Flugzeuge: Von Eflite/Parkzone hängen gerade über mir das UMX Beast, die UMX Corsair und die UMX Mosquito.

Auch eine winzige PT-17 von Hobbyking ist dabei, die gab es vor Jahren mal bei Hobbyking. Schau:

Boeing PT-17 von Herr Engineering

Ende 2014 gab es bei eBay das Angebot einer PT-17 von Herr Engineering. Ein Balsa-Gummimotormodell, nicht für Fernsteuerung vorgesehen. 762mm Spannweite. Kaufen kann jeder, dachte ich mir, bauen vielleicht nicht. Bestellt, gebaut und dabei um eine Fernsteuerung und elektrischen Antrieb erweitert.

Folgende Komponenten sind hinzugekommen:

  • Turnigy 2211/1300kV Motor
  • H-King 10A Fixed Wing ESC
  • Turnigy TS531A 3,7g Servos (3x)
  • OrangeRX RX3S 3-Axis Flight Stabilizer w/DSM2 Compatible 6CH 2.4 MHz Receiver
  • 500mAH 3S 25C Akku

Motordrehzahl, Höhenruder, Seitenruder (inklusive Spornrad) und die Querruder sind steuerbar:


Das Heck ist durch die zusätzlichen Mechaniken, Scharniere und das Spornrad relativ schwer geworden, so dass neben dem Akku und dem Motor vorne weitere 35g Ballast installiert werden musste damit der Schwerpunkt stimmt. Ein bisschen Schade, das Abfluggewicht steigt damit auf 275g.


Der Bau hat sich über ein paar Monate hingezogen, Anfang Mai 2015 war es fertig:


Ganz besonders mag ich die detailgetreue Abspannung der Tragflächen:



Der Erstflug war erfolgreich. Bis zu dem Moment wo der Motor ausgefallen ist. Eine Schraube hatte sich gelöst, ist in die Motorglock gefallen, dabei sind Windungen durchschlagen worden und der Motor war defekt. Ein neuer Motor ist unterwegs, der Austausch ist problemlos.

Dennoch: In den wenigen Minuten in denen die PT-17 bis heute geflogen ist zeigte sich: Sehr gutmütiges Flugverhalten und das Modell kann sehr sehr langsam geflogen werden. Keine Vibrationen vom Motor, es fliegt geräuschlos. Die Reaktion auf die Querruder ist etwas schwammig: Die Carbonrohre der Anlenkung lassen sich zu sehr verdrehen. Davon abgesehen arbeitet die elektronische Stabilisierung (mit der Freeware-Firmware) zuverlässig, auch bei Wind.



Seit Anfang Mai 2015 hat E-flite nun auch eine PT-17 im Programm: Spannweite Mit 388mm Spannweite und 48g Gewicht nur halb so groß und 1/5 so schwer. Zu spät, nun habe ich eine selbstgebaute. Mit viel mehr Details.


Mittlerweile hat das Flugzeug den dritten Motor. Der zweite ist überhitzt, die Magneten waren danach kaputt. Die Kombination mit dem 8×4 Holzpropeller sieht zwar schön aus und hat ca. 120g Schub, passt aber nicht zum Motor. Neue Motorglocke eingebaut, nun ein 6×4.2 Propeller. Etwas weniger Schub, aber der Motor bleibt kalt.


Wiki2Touch: Reloaded

Filed under: Wiki2Touch — Tom @ 22:51

Back in 2007 I’ve written Wiki2Touch, an offline reader for Wikipedia or other wiki-style article collections. iPhone, now iOS, software. That version was never available in the Apple AppStore. It was only running on jailbroken iOS devices. Basically this program was a background task, running on the iOS device and acted as a web server, serving the articles using the http protocol. So you was able to read the articles using Safari, connecting to the local ip address Here is a screenshot of that version:

Old version of Wiki2Touch

Wiki2Touch: Image of the damon based version

The wiki language parser I’ve written is able to parse and convert more or less the complete wiki language used by Wikipedia. This includes templates, usually used to display tables and other fancy content. You miss a lot of information if you omit these tables. AFAIK this is still the only version of an offline Wikipedia reader for iOS devices which is able to do that. Correct me if this isn’t so. Beside that Wiki2Touch can display images, math symbols, it is able to use different languages side by side – including chinese – and some more features.

I’ve stopped development in the first half of 2008.

Now, a couple of years later, I’ve restarted Wiki2Touch development. The new version uses a slightly different approach: It’s not background process anymore, it’s an App for iOS. The wiki server is spawned as a thread of the main process. Hence, Safari isn’t necessary anymore. Here is a picture:


 New version of Wiki2Touch: Integrated web view

Searching for and choosing an article isn’t a function of the webpage anymore, it’s integrated into the app with a nice animation when you switch between article view and the search view:


The search is part of the app

And yes, as I’m using my iPad very often, Wiki2Touch is a universal app running on the iPad as well. Much faster (I only have a 3G iPhone) and a different layout:


Wiki2Touch on the iPad

Here is another screenshot with the popover search view visible:


Wiki2Touch on the iPad with search view visible

 Don’t ask me when – or if ever – this app is available in the apple AppStore. Right now, there is still a lot left to do:

  • Support for multiple languages is currently disabled
  • The GUI part of the app has some know memory leaks
  • The GUI layout isn’t complete (an example: look at the first screenshot, the article title way to small)
  • The wiki language interpreter has some know bugs
  • Images name are not stored cases sensitive
  • Cache management isn’t existing
  • And so on. I’m pretty sure I will find more…

I really don’t want to put something into the AppStore which is not „apple style“: Easy to use, rock solid and nice to look at. I will keep writing here what is going on. If you like it, read it.

Have fun.





Filed under: Modellbau — Tom @ 23:56

Gestern habe ich meinen roten 4#3er „zerlegt“. Der bis dato mit 31,8g leichtes aus meiner Sammlung flog gegen ein aufgehängtes Federbett.

Der FP-Heli ist ein umgebauter Walkera 4#3. U.a. sind beide Motoren Brushlessmotore. Kein Teil der Elektronik ist „original“, eine Reihe von Anbauteilen sind es auch nicht mehr.

Bei uns haben Möbel, Wände und Accessoires kein Eigenleben und springen nicht in die Flugbahn. Nein, die Kiste wurde eigenhändig in die Bettdecke geflogen.

Der nachfolgende Aufprall nach zwei Metern Sturz beschädigte die rote Haube, den Bremsteller und wie sich herausstellte die Zuleitung vom Hauptregler zum Empfänger.

 Lightweight Walkera 4#3

Mein umgebauter Walkera 4#3 vor dem „Satz“

Das die lackierte Haube kaputt ist sieht man nur von unten. Aber ich weiß es, was schlimmer ist.

Die Reparatur der Zuleitung gab die Gelegenheit, die komplette Verdrahtung der beiden Regler mit dem Empfänger zu erneuern. Die vorherige war etwas knapp bemessen, so dass der Hauptregler etwas schief auf dem Empfänger zu liegen kam.

Da das Modell schon auf der Werkbank stand wurde zugleich die Paddelstange aus Federstahl gegen ein aus 1mm Carbonstab ersetzt. Zudem die Schrauben der Servohörner entfernt und die Schubstangen von den Servos zur Taumelscheibe durch 0,8mm Carbonstab ersetzt. Die originalen 4#3er besahsen damals so eine Carbon-Paddelstange, die Paddelstange der Nachfolgemodelle ist aus Stahl, ist robuster und leichter einzustellen.

Eine originale, nicht umlackierte Haube rundete das Ganze ab. Durch diese Maßnahmen sank das Gewicht von 31,8g auf auf nur noch 30,85g. Wow. Mit einem 350mAh Zippy-Akku liegt das Abfluggewicht unter 40g.

Ach ja: Genaue Gewichtsangaben immer ohne Akku. Es gibt verschiedene Typen und die sind unterschiedlich schwer.

Lighter 4#3er

38,9g leichter Walkera 4#3 FP-Heli

Zum Vergleich: Ein originaler Walkera 4#3b Vollbrushless wiegt aus der Packung Abflugbereit weit mehr als 60g. Ohne Akku immer noch um die 50g.

Der vorher sauber eingestellte Heli flog nun sehr dürftig. Beim Start zog der Heli extrem nach links weg. In dieser Stärke vollkommen ungewohnt. Ein bisschen Linksdrift war vorher auch da. Ausgetrimmt, ok.

Doch der weitere Flug war extrem schwammig, von direkt konnte keine Rede mehr sein. Ganz anders als vorher. Selbst der Gyro bekam etwas Husten.

Der Übeltäter war schnell ausgemacht: Die Carbon-Padelstange! Im Vergleich zu einer aus Stahl lässt sich diese etwas leichter durchbiegen, doch was viel schlimmer ist, das sich die Paddel wesentlich leichter gegeneinander verdrehen lassen.

Nach dem Wechsel zurück auf die Stahlstange zog der Heli beim Starten arg nach rechts. Zurück auf die alte Trimmung gestellt flog er wie vorher. Sauber, ruhig und vor allem wieder schön direkt in der Ansprache. Na ja, direkt, was bei einem FP-Heli halt direkt bedeutet. Doch mit 31,2g immer noch 0,7g leichter als vorher.

Als der 4#3b mit der Paddelstange aus Stahl im zweiten Halbjahr 2008 als Nachfolger zum 4#3 vorgestellt wurden, schwärmten alle über das wesentlich direkter Steuerverhalten. Der 4#3b besitzt einen wesentlich modifizierten Kopf, der jedoch prinzipiell genauso funktionierte. Doch am Ende lag es nicht am Kopf, sondern an der Paddelstange. Wieder was gelernt.

Der neue Kopf des 4#3b ist günstiger in der Herstellung, es konnte auf zwei Kugellager verzichtet werden.

Hier noch ein paar Details einer etwas älteren Version meines 4#3:


Ein paar Details

Details umgebauter Walkera 4#3

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